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Spirits of Change: Exploring the Evolving Trends in the Chinese Liquor Market


In the vibrant festivities of Chinese New Year, amidst the fireworks and family reunions, a less discussed but equally colorful tradition unfolds—the consumption of liquor. This tradition reflects not only a social lubricant but also a tapestry of changing trends in the Chinese liquor market. From high-end banquets to casual gatherings, the choice of drink tells a story of cultural shifts, market dynamics, and generational differences.

Chinese New Year Drinking Traditions

During Chinese New Year, alcohol serves both as a celebratory gesture and a cultural binder. Traditionally, family members and friends toast with baijiu, a potent Chinese liquor, celebrating reunions and expressing good wishes. However, each setting dictates a different drinking etiquette—from relaxed family dinners where one can leisurely sip their drink to formal gatherings where toasting rituals reflect respect and hierarchy.

Changing Preferences in Alcohol Consumption

The landscape of Chinese liquor consumption at social gatherings is shifting. While boxed liquors once dominated, there’s a noticeable trend towards more premium, branded bottles. This shift is driven by a growing middle class and an increased emphasis on quality and brand reputation. Brands like Beijing Niulanshan Erguotou, known for its robust flavor, once filled glasses in every setting, from rural eateries to urban celebrations. Yet, recent years have seen a pivot towards more refined tastes and sophisticated branding efforts. Niulanshan Erguotou alone saw its sales skyrocket from three billion yuan in 2005 to over 50 billion yuan in 2015.

Profile of Leading Liquor Brands

Beijing Niulanshan Erguotou has long been a staple on the tables of those celebrating Chinese New Year, as well as other festivities and daily consumption. Founded in the 1950s, Niulanshan Erguotou quickly became synonymous with the authentic taste of Beijing. Its name, “Erguotou,” refers to a traditional distillation method that literally means “second pot head,” indicating the second collection of distillate, known for its purity and high quality. This brand, leveraging its Beijing roots, aggressively marketed itself with the slogan “Authentic Erguotou, Genuine Beijing Flavor.” Over the decades, Niulanshan has grown from a local favorite to a national giant. In the early 2000s, Niulanshan Erguotou dominated markets with its strong aroma, deliberately intensified to distinguish it from lighter fragrant competitors. By 2015, the brand’s sales exceeded 50 billion yuan, a testament to its massive appeal and robust marketing.

Laocunzhang, translating to “old village chief,” tells a different story of brand evolution rooted in the cultural heritage of Northeast China. Launched in the late 1990s, Laocunzhang aimed to capture the essence of rural life, which resonated deeply with consumers from similar backgrounds. It used a low-price strategy similar to that of Niulanshan Erguotou, but with a twist — integrating product placements in popular rural-themed TV dramas and offering promotional lucky draws. These draws often included practical household items, from quilts to laundry detergent, making Laocunzhang not just a liquor choice but a household name. Despite its strong market presence, the brand faced challenges as consumer preferences shifted towards higher quality and branded liquors.

Jiangxiaobai represents the modern transformation of baijiu, targeting a younger demographic that might not typically reach for traditional liquors. Established in 2012 in Chongqing, Jiangxiaobai has redefined the baijiu market by offering a lighter, smoother liquor that appeals to millennials and Gen Z drinkers. Its marketing strategies are notably different, utilizing emotional and trendy copywriting to resonate with younger consumers. Phrases like “It’s not that I can’t quit drinking, but I can’t quit friends” have been pivotal in its branding, emphasizing relationships and modern lifestyles rather than the liquor itself. This approach has proven successful, making Jiangxiaobai a cultural phenomenon among younger audiences. The brand’s innovative packaging and focus on social media engagement have set it apart, signaling a shift in how liquor can be marketed to a new generation.

Impact of Market Changes on Traditional Brands

Recent regulatory changes and evolving consumer tastes have put traditional brands under pressure. The introduction of stricter quality standards has challenged brands like Niulanshan to adapt or face declining sales. This section explores how these brands are responding to new market realities, balancing tradition with innovation to remain relevant. The new national standard, effective June 2022, mandates that solid-state method liquors cannot contain any alcohol additives, impacting many traditional brands.

The Future of Chinese Liquor Industry

As the Chinese liquor market continues to evolve, brands are likely to face more challenges but also opportunities for growth. The trend towards premiumization, coupled with the cultural shift towards more health-conscious and sophisticated drinking habits, suggests a dynamic future for the industry. Major shifts, such as the reduction in sales for low-end liquors like Niulanshan and Laocunzhang, contrast sharply with the luxury segment, where brands like Maotai see consistent demand, with Maotai alone holding a 42% share of the high-end market.


The tapestry of liquor consumption during Chinese New Year is a reflection of broader social and economic trends. As China’s liquor market matures, the interplay between tradition and modernity will continue to shape the choices at festive gatherings, offering a richer understanding of Chinese cultural and commercial landscapes.

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